Twinkle-eyed holidaymakers of yore once told fables of the so-called “old Caribbean”.

Enjoy the Caribbean vibe of Tobago: Beaches, water sports and rainforest walks They spoke of a simpler time before loud Americans rolled off giant cruise ships en masse.

Well those mythical delights can still be experienced on Tobago, a serene tropical paradise unlike anywhere else in this increasingly developed part of the world.

Smaller than its neighbour Trinidad, this 300km-square enclave was the inspiration for Robinson Crusoe and lies outside the hurricane belt, which means incredible weather all year round. It’s changed hands more times than a Ford Cortina and is consequently a cultural melting pot fusing Indian, British, South American and African influences.

The Magdalena Grand hotel is the perfect base. Nestled on a beach plantation, it’s a luxurious oasis facing the wild Atlantic waves which crash spectacularly on the east of the island.

It has an 18-hole golf course, spa and fantastic sea-view rooms – some with hot tubs – plus all manner of sports, bars and shops on offer.

“But make no mistake, its prime charm is its laid-back vibe, tranquillity and pristine palm-tree lined beaches”

Our stay began at the crack of dawn with a rainforest walk. Much of the island’s fauna is safeguarded, which makes Tobago the Caribbean’s top eco-tourism destination, with more species of bird than anywhere else.

Thanks to our insightful guide, Peter Cox, we saw hummingbirds, giant crabs and scorpions that look like mutant spiders. There are also night tours which feature a chorus of creepy sounds.

Later, a trip to the picturesque Argyle Waterfalls was essential for cooling down. We climbed to the top to enjoy nature’s ultimate power shower.

As beautiful as Tobago appears on land, what’s going on under the azure water is equally stunning. Whether you scuba or snorkel, the island’s amazing reef of 44 coral species must be witnessed.

Sean Robinson at the Manta Lodge provides tours and beginners can take four to five classes with him and his team at the Magdalena’s purpose-built diving school.

After all that exertion we deserved a little pampering at the hotel, which showcases a wide variety of cuisine – all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet at Pembois Restaurant, the open-air Salaka Grill and the Li’l Nylon Pool Bar, where nothing beats paddling up to the bar staff, grabbing a frozen mango margarita and floating the day away.

But for that special dining experience get your glad rags on and head to the romantic Kali’na restaurant for Caribbean fusion cuisine where I devoured a saucy rack of lamb dressed in coconut and local spices.

Our stay coincided with the annual Jazz festival, where a mix of the world’s biggest stars join forces for a week of live music and rum tasting.

This year John Legend played pied piper to the island’s entire female contingent at Pigeon Point – which is also the home of watersports.

From jet-ski and windsurfing to banana boating, there’s something for everyone here. I had a go at paddle boarding, which appeared to be merely standing on the water with a stick, but was harder than it looked.

Boat excursions are another great way of seeing the island because they make pit-stops at local markets. The boat took us to the famous Nylon Pool – a freak sand bank miles out to sea where you can stroll about in waist-deep water passing around the rum punch!

But if you only bother peeling yourself off the sun lounger for one activity, make sure it’s Healing With Horses. The rescue centre animals head for the beach in a herd culminating in a horseback swimming lesson.

With so much entertainment on offer, Tobago may sound like the Orlando of the Caribbean.

But make no mistake, its prime charm is its laid-back vibe, tranquillity and pristine palm-tree lined beaches.

I can’t wait to wash up on its shores again.

IMAGES:

PARADISE: Tobago is unspoilt and boasts beautiful scenery [PH]

LUXURIOUS: The Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort [BH]

STUNNING: The island’s amazing reef of 44 coral species must be witnessed [GETTY]

ACTIVITY: Pigeon Point is the home of the island’s water sports [GETTY]

For more on this story go to: http://www.dailystar.co.uk/travel/beach/395870/What-to-do-in-Tobago