Pico! Pico! Pico! The technicolour sound systems of Barranquilla – in pictures

The Guardian

On Colombia’s Caribbean coast flamboyantly customised ‘picos’ blast out vintage vinyl as part of a highly competitive sound system culture

Words and photographs by Ariel Tagar

In Barranquilla, the indigenous and African cultures have lived side by side for centuries – and music is where a melding of cultures is most strongly felt. An outdoor sound system culture has steadily developed in Barranquilla since the 1950s, championing the Afro-Colombian sound. More than 200 sound systems (or picos) exist in the city. They are found everywhere: in billiard halls, bars, restaurants and out in the streets – but especially at carnival time, as Barranquilla is second only to Rio in the size of its carnival. Owners decorate their sonic beasts with hand-painted artwork

Picos still predominantly play vinyl records. While cumbia and salsa music are Colombia’s predominant genres, picos play African music, mostly soukous, a Congolese rhythm. At one time, demand for these records was so strong that French sailors would bring crates of vinyl from Africa. Full of soukous, Afrobeat, and highlife gems, they were snapped up by pico owners – and these same records are still played today. The name pico comes from a nickname for a Studebaker pickup truck used in Colombia from the 60s onwards. The trucks transported the heavy sound systems to events – and the name stuck

El Jandy, owned by Jeison Cabarcas, built 2010

The name El Jandy is a combination of the owner’s and his wife’s initials: Jeison AND Yalile. Favourite record: Tu M’As Déçu Marie-Jeanne by Orchestre Mode Succès

Agui, owned by

Euclides Aguilar , built 1998“Agui is my nickname, it’s short for my last name. My father started the pico and named it after me as I was his eldest son.” Favourite music: African soukous Favourite record: HO Ochiri, D.O.7 Band (known in Barranquilla as El Endemoniao)

El Perro, owned by Juan Rodriguez, built 2015

“El Perro is my nickname around here, so that’s what I called my pico. I don’t own a dog myself.” Favourite music: salsa and African music. Favourite record: Diamanté by Misha M’fum Chris

La Salsa De Puerto Rico, owned by

Martin Leal Jimenez , built 1964 Martin’s father built the pico 54 years ago. He had a strong love of Puerto Rican salsa, hence the pico’s name. Martin plays mostly salsa but loves African music too. Favourite Record: El Differente by Ricardo Ray

Franco Turbo, owned by Gustavo Franco, built 2017

Gustavo is the owner of the La Trojita bar in the outskirts of Barranquilla. As well as owning his father’s pico (above) he recently built his first pico in an attempt to attract more customers to the bar. His children are the ones who DJ. Favourite music: Salsa Favourite record: Domingo by Ismael Riviera

El Patron, owned by Jhonatan Sanchez, built 2008

“Pablo Escobar is regarded both as a good and a bad figure in Colombia. He’s caused much suffering but helped the people of Colombia at the same time. This painting sure does cause controversy when we play out – I even got some threats from local gangsters thinking I’m actually linked to the Medellin cartels. All publicity is good publicity, I say!” Favourite music: African soukous Favourite record: El Ajite En Las Lomas by Champetas Africana

El Mayor Turbo Digital, owned by

Jesus Betancour , built 2015 “My grandfather fought in world war two with the British and the Americans against Hitler. My father then followed his footsteps and was a Major Sargent in the Colombian marines. My grandfather made me an Anglophile; the painting on the pico is a portrait of my father.” Favourite music: African soukous. Favourite record: Kass Kass by Kass Kass
Photograph: Ariel Tagar

El Gran Lobo, owned by Julio Cesar, built 2014

El Lobo is one of the largest Picos in Barranquilla and also one of the most popular. When I arrived at Lobo HQ, the pico’s many crew members were busy packing it for a dance in Cartagena that night. Favourite music: cumbia, salsa, soukous, Rock. Favourite record: El Lobo by Irene Martínez y Los Senores De Gamero

El Giova Turbo, owned by

Giovani Araraujo Marin , built 2015 Giova is the owner’s nickname. He owns a Mexican restaurant and shares his time between his business, his pico, and his family, all of whom are active members of the pico’s team. Favourite music: salsa, African soukous and highlife. Favourite record: Kin Night by Lokasa Ya M’bongo
Photograph: Ariel Tagar

El Guerrero, owned by Juan Carlos Mora aka El Pito, built 1968

“Many of the records I play are totally exclusive to me: I’m the only one in Barranquilla who has them. I scratch the record labels out so people won’t be able to know what I play. Many of these African records I have, most people haven’t even heard about!” Favourite record: Bopol by Helena
Photograph: Ariel Tagar

El Concord, owned by Mario Fabregas, built 1970

“This is the first stereo pico in Barranquilla. I purchased it from an elderly Chinese man who used to play it around the corner from where I grew up as a child. It’s how I was introduced to the Pico culture. I kept the name to honour his legacy.” Favourite music: salsa, porro, African soukous. Favourite record: El Avion by Joe Baatan
Photograph: Ariel Tagar

El Gran Fidel, owned by

Jaime Alavarez Gomez , built 1968 El Gran Fidel is one of Barraquilla’s oldest Picos. It has been going strong for 50 years. Jaime was an original Colombian socialist and is a Fidel Castro fanatic. Favourite record: Shakara by Fela Kuti
Photograph: Ariel Tagar

For more on this story go to: https://www.theguardian.com/cities/gallery/2018/apr/24/pico-technicolour-sound-systems-barranquilla-in-pictures