British Virgin Islands a true Caribbean treat

By Ellen Creager, Detroit Free Press

Among the loveliest of Caribbean destinations, the BVI and its island-studded aqua seas have long been a favorite of sailors looking for an idyllic getaway.

But last year, the BVI island of Tortola extended its short cruise ship pier to accommodate two huge cruise ships of more than 4,000 passengers each.

The cruise ship crowd descended.

Now, Road Town authorities have opened Tortola Pier Park, a pastel welcome center complex for cruise passengers. Dedicated in February, it has wares by local artisans and large retailers. About 32 shops, attractions and tour operators are open, with the goal of 80.

Both of these moves aim to attract tourism that until recently the islands shunned.

Thousands of swarming cruise ship passengers may not fit with the high-class BVI image, but it’s an opportunity.

“We still cater to overnight tourists and sailing passengers, but we wanted to up our game with the cruise ship industry to compete with other islands,” says Meslyn Allan, marketing manager for Tortola Pier Park. “We are mindful of the impact of the visitors. We keep our eye on the numbers. But our tourism industry appreciates the extra business the cruise ships bring.”

Which Virgin Islands?

Most Americans are familiar with the Virgin Islands — the American Virgin Islands of St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix, which the U.S. bought from Denmark in 1917.

But the nearby BVI is more mysterious. It is made up of nearly 60 islands, most unpopulated. How gorgeous is it? British billionaire Sir Richard Branson owns two private islands here, Necker and Mosquito Island. Michigan’s Van Andel family of Amway fame owns another BVI island, Peter Island, and its tiny resort.

With its steady trade winds, reliable warm weather and ability to navigate from one visible island to the next, BVI is known as one of the best sailing spots in the world. About two-thirds of its 393,000 overnight visitors last year stayed aboard charter boats, more than stayed overnight on land.

Now, add to that the 400-plus cruise ships that visited last year with 516,000 passengers, up 43% from 2014 and 2013.

Tortola residents benefit from the influx, especially the artisans and tour operators who are part of Tortola Pier, Allan says. “You will get a taste of the BVI as you get off the ship,” she says. “Many of our shops feature locally made crafts, pottery, conch shell jewelry and watercolors,” adding that most of what tourists will find at the complex “is very much unique to the Virgin Islands.”

Naturally elegant

The BVI is not a nation, but an overseas territory of the U.K. Its largest islands have alluring sights of nature:

On Virgin Gorda: The Baths feature giant boulders that hide secret pools and labyrinths on the edge of the sea. Wildly beautiful, but only those who are very sure-footed should attempt a visit. The northeast side of this island has the famous Bitter End Yacht Club, reachable only by boat. Some tour groups from cruise ships visit Virgin Gorda on day trips.

On Anegada: The only flat, coral island in BVI. It has amazing reefs and wrecks that attract snorkelers and divers. Only issue: It can take all day to get there on a ferry from Tortola, so cruise ship passengers won’t have a chance to see it.

On Tortola:

This is where big cruise ships dock. Whether you arrive by ship or plan to stay here a week or more, this island and its capital city, Road Town, have a friendly air. Most cruise ship passengers end up at Cane Garden Bay Beach, a curvy slip of white sand with turquoise water. Road Town is a regular town, not a tourist town, and it does not have the pirate swash charm of Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas. But it’s fine for banking, shopping and access to the Tortola Pier.

On Tortola, I hiked Sage Mountain National Park. Off the beaten track for tourists, the hike was through the cool shade of mahogany trees and over rough paths. It was a little bit muddy, and there were some rocky uphill steps on the 4-plus-mile hike. The payoff? The quiet peace of the tropical forest and amazing views. The park is on land donated by the Rockefellers, who also donated their land on the island of St. John to the U.S. Virgin Islands for its national park there.

At Sage Mountain’s visitors center, a short, warm, tropical rainstorm turned everything glistening green. Then came the topper: a double rainbow over the Caribbean sea and the nearby BVI island Jost Van Dyke.

And on the way back? My small bus stopped at a high, hilly overlook. The tiny buildings of Road Town spread out below — red, yellow, green and white. And the two giant cruise ships at the new Tortola Pier looked from a distance remarkably like small bathtub boats.

If you go

Cruise ships in the BVI: Large cruise ships this year include Norwegian Escape, Gem and Spirit; Celebrity Summit; Royal Caribbean Serenade of the Seas, Disney Fantasy, MSC Orchestra, Aida Mar. Small ships on the schedule include Silversea’s Silver Wind, Azamara Journey, Paul Gauguin’s Tere Moana, and the stately windjammer sailing ships of Sea Cloud and Star Clipper.

For more on the new Tortola Pier: www.tortolapier.com.

Flying there: Fly from Detroit to San Juan, Puerto Rico, then on to BVI. You also can fly to St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, and then take a ferry to Tortola.

Transport between islands in the BVI: Ferries operate between all major BVI islands. www.bestofbvi.com/info/map_bvi_ferries.htm.

Required for Americans unless coming on a cruise ship: a passport.

Lodging: No giant resorts. Look for a resort hotel, villa rental or sailing charter, either crewed or bareboat. On Anegada, try Anegada Beach Club, with luxury beachfront tents ($350 a night), www.anegadabeachclub.com. On Virgin Gorda, try the Bitter End Yacht Club ($525 a night), www.beyc.com. On Peter Island, check out Peter Island Resort and Spa ($450-up per night), www.peterisland.com, Want to stay on the water and sail from island to island? Check out BVI’s charter boat “Beds Afloat” selection: www.bvitourism.com/beds-afloat

For more: www.bvitourism.com

IMAGES:
ROAD TOWN, Tortola BVI – The British Virgin Islands is where summer spends the winter. 635936618844727815-Tortola-BVI-8.JPG (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)
Tortola, British Virgin Islands, is just one of some 60 islands in the beautiful BVI chain. It is the capital. (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)
New cruise ship welcome center opened in February in Tortola, British Virgin Islands; the pier was recently extended to accommodate large cruise ships. (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)
Cane Garden Bay Beach, Tortola, British Virgin Islands. (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)
Sage Mountain National Park, Tortola, British Virgin Islands (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)
Tortola, British Virgin Islands (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)
Tortola, British Virgin Islands, is just one of some 60 islands in the beautiful BVI chain. It is the capital. (Photo: Ellen Creager/Detroit Free Press)

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