Princess Diana’s Caribbean paradise

November 26, 2015

By Sarah Bridge For Mailonline

The royal seal of approval: A relaxing stay at the quiet and exquisite that was loved by Princess Diana (and it is easy to see why)

The royal princess stayed on the tiny island of Nevis 20 years ago with the young Princes William and Harry
From champagne breakfasts, horse-riding at sunset and catamaran cruises, the island offers a luxurious stay
No cruise ships nor long-haul flights stop at the island, which has helped the area retain its peaceful charm

‘So, what did you do for your birthday?’ I was asked the other day.

‘Well,’ I said, feigning nonchalance, ‘after a champagne breakfast in my luxury Caribbean condo, I went on a catamaran cruise along the coasts, snorkelled among tropical fish, trekked through a rainforest underneath a volcano and then ended up riding a horse along the beach at sunset.’

There was a pause.

‘And I drank a lot of rum punch,’ I added, just in case they thought it sounded all too much like hard work.

As far as bragging rights go, spending your birthday in the Caribbean sets the bar pretty high.

And in this particular part of the Caribbean, the tiny island of Nevis, even comes with the Royal seal of approval.

Princess Diana stayed here 20 years ago with the young Princes William and Harry and to say that little seems to have changed in the meantime is a compliment, rather than a criticism of the tiny Caribbean island.

Diana flew to Nevis (pronounced Nee-vis) for peace and solitude, and the 36-square mile island certainly still has that in abundance.

Unlike St Kitt’s, which is just a couple of miles away across the water (there is an annual swim between the two islands), or its larger Caribbean neighbours such as Antigua and St Lucia, Nevis is still untouched by tourism on a large scale.

No cruise ships nor long-haul flights stop here which has helped the island keep its charm and with just 12,000 inhabitants it certainly isn’t crowded – you will have the beaches all to yourself.

With just one main road hugging the coastline (driving is on the left, as befits the oldest British colony in the Caribbean – St Kitts and Nevis became a fully-independent country in 1983) it doesn’t take long to drive round the lush, green island which is dotted with coconut palms, 19th century churches and disused sugar cane mills, the legacy of the once-massive industry here.

However it is off the beaten track that the island comes to life. There are plenty of walking trails in the interior of the island in the shadow of the brooding volcano Nevis Peak.

My guide was able not only to take me through dense rainforest to some beautiful waterfalls but to point out every plant which had a practical use, from curing sore throats to producing the best bark for burning, or boat-building – and we saw a fair few monkeys too which roam the island and can be heard chattering from the trees.

The capital, Charlestown, is tiny both in population (just 1,500 people) and size: wandering through its narrow streets and the ferry port with its customs house and tiny central square feels like going back in time to a different era.

The local juice bar serves its drinks in a leafy garden where clucking chickens wander around, and even the journey to Nevis itself – on a tiny six-seater propeller plane from Antigua (you can also transfer from St Kitts by plane or boat) – felt as if I was really travelling way off the beaten track.

For such a small island it boasts some impressive former inhabitants: American Founding Father Alexander Hamilton was born here, while Horatio Nelson met and married his wife, Francis Nisbet, on Nevis, meeting her every time he came ashore to get water from a nearby spring for his fleet.

Thankfully while Nevis doesn’t boast endless high-rise holiday apartment blocks or global hotel brands, it doesn’t mean visitors have to skimp on the essentials.

While Diana stayed at the Montpelier Plantation, I stayed just down the road at the newly built and aptly-named Paradise Beach resort.

My four-bedroom, four-bathroom villa not only had its own swimming pool, outdoor shower, fully-equipped kitchen and wi-fi, but was just a few steps from the beach, and most importantly, the beach bar.

Here rum punches were served pretty much constantly, with even a passing ship stopping to refresh its passengers, but I indulged in some healthier pursuits on the beach too, including jet-lag busting early-morning yoga, stand-up paddle-boarding and a luxurious alfresco massage, made even more relaxing by the sound of the nearby waves.

If all that became too much like hard work, there were cosy sunloungers and swaying hammocks to drift away in.
Sarah had the opportunity to sample some interesting Goat’s Water soup out of a ceramic bowl during her stay.

While Nevis is a perfect place in which to simply do nothing except relax and unwind, there are more energetic activities available too, from exploring the island by bike and horse-riding along the beach, to getting out onto the water in a catamaran for some sunbathing and snorkelling (there are dive trips too) and getting stuck into the social scene (and the rum punches) at the nearby beach bars.

Just a short walk along the beach from Paradise Beach was Pinney’s Beach, with a cluster of bars and restaurants built out of wood and open on all sides to the elements.

A few Killer Bee’s cocktails at Sunshine’s Bar (the recipe is secret, but I’m guessing rum was involved somewhere) and the world looked even better – if that was possible.

While Paradise Villas provides private catering for each villa, there are also enough good restaurants on Nevis to keep foodies happy: I had a particularly good meal at Banana’s, high up above Charlestown up a pot-holed road – where I sampled local delicacies such as Nevisian Goat Water (a hearty, meaty stew) and Johnny Cakes, a crispy, coconut dumpling.

For those looking for more ‘bling’ and a rocking night-life, Nevis would be far too quiet, but as an island getaway it is ideal. And it certainly sets a high standard for my next birthday.

TRAVEL FACTS

Paradise Beach, Charlestown, Nevis

Try horse-riding at Nevis Equestrian Centre, Charlestown, Nevis $75 for 90 minutes, $80 for sunset ride along the beach, private rides available.

Where to eat: Banana’s restaurant, Upper Hamilton Estate, Nevis

Sunshine’s Beach Bar and Grill, Pinney’s Beach

IMAGES:

Sarah travelled to the spectacular Nevis Island in the Caribbean which has stunning turquoise waters and lush green rain forests
There are activities aplenty on the island, from kayaking, horse-riding, catamaran cruises to snorkelling among tropical fish
A birthday in paradise: Sarah enjoyed having a drink on the beach overlooking the spectacular island surroundings
Princess Diana stayed at Nevis Island, a tiny atoll in the Caribbean, 20 years ago with the young Princes William and Harry Princess Diana (left) stayed here 20 years ago with the young Princes William and Harry and to say that little seems to have changed in the meantime is a compliment, rather than a criticism of the tiny Caribbean island (right) Sarah was lucky enough to start her day with a champagne breakfast served in her luxury Caribbean condo Diana flew to Nevis (pronounced Nee-vis) for peace and solitude, and the 36-square mile island certainly still has that in abundance
Princess Diana sits to watch the sunset on a beach during her visit to Nevis Island in the Caribbean in 1993 The villas at Paradise Beach Nevis are exquisite, with loungers, pools and hut to escape the sun
No cruise ships nor long-haul flights stop here which has helped the island keep its charm and with just 12,000 inhabitants it certainly isn’t crowded – you will have the beaches all to yourself
Sarah’s four-bedroom, four-bathroom villa not only had its own swimming pool, outdoor shower, fully-equipped kitchen and wi-fi, but was just a few steps from the beach, and most importantly, the beach bar Sarah had the opportunity to sample some interesting Goat’s Water soup out of a ceramic bowl during her stay
While Nevis is a perfect place in which to simply do nothing except relax and unwind but there are more energetic activities available such as horse-riding along the beach
While Nevis is a perfect place in which to simply do nothing except relax and unwind but there are more energetic activities available such as horse-riding along the beach
There are plenty of walking trails in the interior of the island in the shadow of the brooding volcano Nevis Peak Just a short walk along the beach from Paradise Beach was Pinney’s Beach, with a cluster of bars and restaurants built out of wood and open on all sides to the elements